Cheap Chebby
Question: Your Cheap Truck Challenge from a few years back was such an awesome idea. When are you going to bring it back?Your magazine inspired me to combine the CTC with a flavor of the Ultimate Adventure: a $1,500 budget, but also a 1,500-mile roundtrip. I've pulled a '74 Blazer out of a grove of trees, got the engine reliable, added 33-inch tires, shocks, and seats. The truck's current form has plenty of power and clearance for the trails and roads here on the Plains, but could have a difficult time in the mountains. I'm leaning toward finding better axles for better gears and bigger tires.
Are there some junkyard axle options that are simple bolt-ups, or should I look for something else to improve the truck's capabilities on the Cheap Truck Ultimate Adventure?
Brad B.
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Cheap Truck Challenge wasn't a once-in-a-lifetime event, but it did require each editor to buy and build a 4x4 for under $1,500 and then go wheeling together. That is a feat, considering the schedules of everyone on staff. We will surely do another CTC, but we haven't nailed down a date yet.
Your Blazer sounds like the perfect CTC/UA truck. It's popular, so parts are abundant and cheap, plus it's big enough to haul gear but small enough to fit on most trails. You can simply regear the axles you currently have (a Dana 44-bolt front and 12-bolt rear) if you want lower gears, but upgrading to 1-ton front axles and a 3/4-ton rear axle from a '76-'87 Chevy or GMC truck will definitely give you stronger parts to build off. These axles will bolt in without much work, but if you are sticking with the 33-inch-tall tires, I wouldn't bother with the swap. I'd just give the engine your standard tune-up.
I'd buy some quality suspension seats for a comfortable place to sit, the best shocks you can afford, and a rear locking differential. All these parts plus the 33-inch tires will be hard to have for under $1,500, but if you watch the classifieds and visit some swap meets, you'll probably do all right.
Another great option for cheap parts is your local 4x4 shop. Stop by, tell them your plan, and ask if you can post "parts wanted" on their bulletin board. It may actually help them sell some bigger tires to the next customer if they know you'll give a few hundred bucks for the guy's old tires. Good luck and send us that photo from the peak.
Nuts, I'm Confused
Steering Soldier
Question: I am currently deployed in Kuwait, and before I left the states I got an '85 GMC High Sierra. I was wondering how to rebuild the steering system. The truck is in poor condition and it needs to have the whole steering system rebuilt along with most of the drivetrain to handle 35-inch tires. I have a very limited budget for this project.
Pfc. Landmesser
via 4wheeloffroad.com
Answer: Steering and brakes are the two most important parts of your vehicle so don't skimp on them. On the GM 1/2-ton steering system the pitman arm attaches to the steering-box sector shaft with a cross-bolt that clamps it on. The steering arm is the "C" shaped piece that is bolted to the steering knuckle on the axle with three large studs. The drag link connects the pitman arm and steering arm, and on your '85 GM the drag link is just two drag-link ends with an adjuster sleeve in the middle. The long rod assembly under the leaf spring that ties the knuckles together is the tie rod and on your '85 it should be a threaded tube with a replaceable end on each side that's secured with a jam nut. The steering stabilizer is the shock that is bolted to the tie rod and axletube.
The first step is going to be making sure all the steering joints are good, which from your description of the truck means replacing them. The tie-rod ends and drag-link ends are just parts store replacement parts so pick your favorite store, get new ends, and screw them in. The drag-link adjuster sleeves don't fail unless they're just rusted beyond use and the tie-rod tube will also work fine as long as you don't bash it too hard on rocks and stumps.
You should also check the steering stabilizer; it's a bit of a Band-Aid but can really help you run parts that are less than brand new but still good. If the stabilizer is shot, a parts store replacement will be fine. A 35-inch tire isn't hard enough on the stabilizer that you need to buy a dual kit.
I'm going to assume that you have a 4- to 6-inch lift on the truck already to accommodate the 35-inch tires and the steering correction for that lift height should be a raised steering arm. It'll be the same "C" shape as the stock arm, but will rise up to the drag-link connection instead of dropping down. If you don't have a raised steering arm on the truck, you will need to get one. It'll drive better and the ends will last longer with it installed.
So far all we've done is refresh the factory parts, which really is fine for a 35-inch tire and mild use. The GMs had pretty beefy steering systems to start with. The real problem point with any early-GM steering is the frame strength behind the steering box. Sooner or later, they all crack out, but Off-Road Design (970.945.7777, www.offroaddesign.com) offers a bolt-in brace that really is essential for any truck with bigger tires. When you install the brace, check the frame around the box and its mounting holes for cracks, and if you find any, weld them up and plate them over with a weld-in repair kit.
This should give you a relatively cheap, safe, and reliable steering rebuild that will get you through the next couple of years with the truck, and leave you with some cash to keep it running. And by the way, thanks for your service to our country. Keep safe and come home soon.
Guess what, Private? You're serving our country and you're an off-roader, and to show our thanks I'm picking you as this month's Nuts, I'm Confused letter of the month. Your prize will be a set of BDS Suspension (517.279.2135 www.bds-suspension.com) 9500-series shocks for your truck. These high-pressure gas monotube shocks are designed to eliminate foaming and lag time for instant control, they have a brushed stainless appearance with top clearcoat for long-term performance and they include urethane bushings for increased shock performance, an all-weather convoluted boot, and rolled closed ends for leakproof construction. We hope you'll make it home safe and you'll be out wheeling again soon.